Hubs and hub bearings seemingly continued to get overlooked, or under-looked, on new and old bikes these days. What most do not realize is that the quick release lever has a hand in the final bearing adjustment. So after setting your adjustment, it is easy enough to qualify it's quality by slipping a box end wrench over the spindle end and clamping the QR lever with the same force as you plan to use when on the bike. I have cut off an old rear dropout to be used instead, works the same. The rear dropout is thicker than a fork dropout, so is easier to use. What you will find every time, although to different degrees is that the hub should be left a little loose so the QR finalizes the adjustment. As long as there is no play once clamped, and the hub rolls smooth and fast, and you are ready to fly. While the hub is loose, I recommend pulling it completely apart and regreasing with a slippery Teflon grease, being positive to lock the drive-side of the rear hub upon reassembly. If the locking of the drive-side is overlooked upon reassembly or during the assembly process itself, the hub will not be able to hold a solid adjustment, and will continue to readjust itself with use.
Thursday, July 11, 2013
Monday, July 1, 2013
Bikes that Last a Lifetime
It may go without saying, but a bicycle should last a lifetime. Most all bicycles require a process of assembly to be right, and ready to ride. The assembly process can not be overlooked, or the future of the bike is at stake.
This is an important aspect of the responsibility of your local bikeshop, and should be a key selling point as well. If the proper adjustments are not accomplished from the time the new bike is pulled out of the box, the is a huge chance that these adjustments will not be accomplished until a problem develops (ie. part replacement time). Amazingly this assembly procedure is the greatest form of Preventative Maintenance I know of, and can be a make-it-or-break-it scenario, left unfinished.
All the manufacturers today will only sell to a dealer for this very reason alone. There are adjustments that need to be done in order to insure the product not only rolls, but that it stays together forever. Any on-going issue with your bike represents a procedure overlooked during assembly.
The heart of your bike is the ______? After pondering this question for some time, I expected a few possible components. Consider this alternate fact... if you added up the costs of all parts on a bike, the cost of the bike would reflect solely the parts. The frameset, albeit having the warranty (sometimes Lifetime) comes free, after the cost of componentry. Therefore, I am labeling the frame as the personality, or character of the bike.
The heart of the bike to me is the "rear hub", and/or rear wheel. If this component gets the attention it warrants, your bike could last a lifetime. If it doesn't you could be plagued by issues for this same duration and costs way above and beyond those anticipated.
Required Action No. 1: The drive side of the rear hub needs to be locked, in order for it to hold a bearing adjustment. This requires removing the cassette and the non-drive side components so the axle can be moved enough to get to the race and lock nut (to be set with proper torque). All the while being sure the driveline will have proper chain clearance at the drive side dropout. Once it is locked then you can finalize your bearing adjustment on the rear hub. Note: the hub adjustment is not finalized until the hub is installed in the frame. Meaning the QR lever can compress the hub and affect the adjustment!!!
Never be afraid to readjust a second or third time, in order to get it right. Lastly the wheel needs to be dished and trued accordingly with adequate tensioning of spokes.
From here you can move onto the stops on the rear derailler. The H is the small cog stop, and the L is the large cog stop, aligning the chain perfectly over, without hope of letting it into the spokes or dropout. The last derailler adjustment (B) will help you maintain the proper tension on the derailler cage and maintain crisp shifting. Match the angle of the the derailler mid-body to the chain stays maintaining some clearance between the derailler and cassette when in the lowest (largest) cog. You will agree, that if the rear wheel is not right, there will be hell to pay on the way.
All bearing adjustments are critical to the life of the component. The headset, front hub, and old-school bottom bracket adjustments will cause premature wear if not addressed before use. If you ride a bearing adjustment loose, you are also doing irrepairable damage to the part. A $7 dollar adjustment is always worth it over a $170+/- part replacement.
There is not a doubt when I say, these are the most life-lengthening adjustments you can do to your bike. More on running cables later.
Larry the Legend
Wrench, Ride, and Roost
Moab, UT
This is an important aspect of the responsibility of your local bikeshop, and should be a key selling point as well. If the proper adjustments are not accomplished from the time the new bike is pulled out of the box, the is a huge chance that these adjustments will not be accomplished until a problem develops (ie. part replacement time). Amazingly this assembly procedure is the greatest form of Preventative Maintenance I know of, and can be a make-it-or-break-it scenario, left unfinished.
All the manufacturers today will only sell to a dealer for this very reason alone. There are adjustments that need to be done in order to insure the product not only rolls, but that it stays together forever. Any on-going issue with your bike represents a procedure overlooked during assembly.
The heart of your bike is the ______? After pondering this question for some time, I expected a few possible components. Consider this alternate fact... if you added up the costs of all parts on a bike, the cost of the bike would reflect solely the parts. The frameset, albeit having the warranty (sometimes Lifetime) comes free, after the cost of componentry. Therefore, I am labeling the frame as the personality, or character of the bike.
The heart of the bike to me is the "rear hub", and/or rear wheel. If this component gets the attention it warrants, your bike could last a lifetime. If it doesn't you could be plagued by issues for this same duration and costs way above and beyond those anticipated.
Required Action No. 1: The drive side of the rear hub needs to be locked, in order for it to hold a bearing adjustment. This requires removing the cassette and the non-drive side components so the axle can be moved enough to get to the race and lock nut (to be set with proper torque). All the while being sure the driveline will have proper chain clearance at the drive side dropout. Once it is locked then you can finalize your bearing adjustment on the rear hub. Note: the hub adjustment is not finalized until the hub is installed in the frame. Meaning the QR lever can compress the hub and affect the adjustment!!!
Never be afraid to readjust a second or third time, in order to get it right. Lastly the wheel needs to be dished and trued accordingly with adequate tensioning of spokes.
From here you can move onto the stops on the rear derailler. The H is the small cog stop, and the L is the large cog stop, aligning the chain perfectly over, without hope of letting it into the spokes or dropout. The last derailler adjustment (B) will help you maintain the proper tension on the derailler cage and maintain crisp shifting. Match the angle of the the derailler mid-body to the chain stays maintaining some clearance between the derailler and cassette when in the lowest (largest) cog. You will agree, that if the rear wheel is not right, there will be hell to pay on the way.
All bearing adjustments are critical to the life of the component. The headset, front hub, and old-school bottom bracket adjustments will cause premature wear if not addressed before use. If you ride a bearing adjustment loose, you are also doing irrepairable damage to the part. A $7 dollar adjustment is always worth it over a $170+/- part replacement.
There is not a doubt when I say, these are the most life-lengthening adjustments you can do to your bike. More on running cables later.
Larry the Legend
Wrench, Ride, and Roost
Moab, UT
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